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CRITIC'S NOTEBOOK by S. Irene Virbila

A flash of Alto Palato's tenor
Spark Woodfire Grill on Pico Boulevard is coming into its time.By S. Irene VirbilaTimes Staff WriterJune 2, 2005Spark Woodfire Grill moved into the old Osteria Romana space on Pico Boulevard some months ago, but it's only now that the place is taking off. This is the third of the Woodfire concept Cal-Mediterraneans. There are also ones in Studio City and Huntington Beach, but this one is special.A little history: The three-story pink building opened as Osteria Romana Orsini in the late '60s. Through the years the owner brought in wave after wave of chefs and cooks and waiters from Italy. Celestino Drago started out here as a waiter. So did his brother, Tanino.Danilo Terribili, who went on to work with Mauro Vincenti at Rex, remembers that they used to grow basil in big pots up on the roof, because you couldn't buy it anywhere then. Terribili later opened Alto Palato (now closed) in West Hollywood. Now, by a twist of fate, he's back at the place where he had his first job in L.A. — as owner (with Bill Chait, who founded the Louise's Trattorias).

The place has a good look, updated and contemporary with bright pumpkin walls and jolts of color. Downstairs feels more clubby, and on Thursday nights the Wilson-Turner Collective holds forth from 8 to 11 p.m. Oh, you won't have any trouble hearing; even in this small space, the jazz musicians are amplified. On the second floor, which has its own separate bar, the music arrives muffled, stripped of juice, but it is possible to talk, always a plus.After a faltering start, the kitchen at this new Spark recaptured its mojo once Fredy Escobar, former chef at Alto Palato, took over the stoves. He's added some old Alto Palato dishes to the more generic Cal-Mediterranean menu.

Start with a classic: a thin-crusted Roman-style pizza Margherita, garnished with a light tomato sauce, a little mozzarella and a few sprigs of basil. They've also got a build-your-own option for the anarchists out there. Or go with the rich, cheesy eggplant Parmigiana or a salad of creamy burrata cheese with tomatoes and basil.Pasta dishes are deftly handled, especially the homemade lasagna layered with smoked mozzarella and Bolognese sauce. Who even makes lasagna anymore?Spark "classics" are more American comfort food, things like meat loaf, spit-roasted chicken, tri-tip, etc. Smoky baby back ribs are falling-off-the-bone tender.At the Sparks, everything is big, so you'll have to enforce your own discipline. Or take home something for the doggie. Look to the specials board for grilled Santa Barbara spot prawns, or a Kansas City bone-in steak with blue cheese if you're hankering for the steak equivalent of a cheeseburger.

The wine list has some good bottles at decent markups. The bar makes a mean cocktail. And for dessert, you can get an affogato — a cup of espresso poured over vanilla ice cream — for the road.The place is also surprisingly comfortable and welcoming. It's some place to get a supper during the week or, on Thursdays, and the weekend, hang out with friends. I suspect as Escobar settles into his new job, he'll be experimenting more with what a wood-burning oven can do.*Spark Woodfire GrillWhere: 9575 W. Pico Blvd., Los AngelesWhen: Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; dinner 5 to 10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 5 to 11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Valet parkingCost: Starters, $5 to $12; salads, $7 to $13; pizzas, $12 to $14; classics, $14 to $17; chops and steaks, $15 to $29; desserts, $6Info: (310) 277-0133, www.sparkwoodfiregrill.com

http://www.calendarlive.com/dining/cl-wk-critic2jun02,2,5961394.story